boiled yarn

Flax yams boiled in soda lye, with a loss of from 5 to 10 per cent in weight. Yarns intended for thread are usually boiled to render them soft and flexible, or to make them lighter in colour. Yams for the fine white linens are also usually boiled to reduce their bulk and enable a lighter and firmer cloth to be produced.

A few standard types of medium weight and fineness are given herewith: - 1,200 splits on 40-in., 2 in a split and 13 shots on ³⁷/₂₀₀-in. glass. The warp is 40's and the weft 50's lea boiled yarn. Additional and finer cloths are: -

Linen or flax yarn is very strong and weaves well, although it has little elasticity. It can be bleached to a snowy white (See also Flax). (See Dry and Wet Spinning). Boiled Linen Yarn has been boiled in soda lye and there is a loss in weight of from 5 to 10 per cent. Creamed Linen Yarn is first boiled, then treated with bleaching powder and the loss in weight is 10 to 12 per cent.

Flax yarns that have first been boiled, then bleached with bleaching powder. They lose about 10 to 12 per cent in weight (see Flax)

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

A German process for giving a high lustre to worsted yarn. The yam is also considerably elongated. In a bath of bisulphite of soda the yam is treated at a high temperature and under tension to prevent shrinkage, it is then boiled for an hour in a weak solution of mineral acid, under relaxing tension, and finally well rinsed in water.

The cloth for handkerchief making is made from fine boiled line yarn. The sett varies from 40 to 100 ends and picks per inch, and yarns 55's to 100's warp, 60's to 140's weft.

Derived from the French word " panne " plush and is a light velvet with a flattened pile. The ground warp is good quality two-fold cotton yarn, pile warp of spun silk, and the weft two-fold cotton. The weave is arranged three picks to one wire, and two ground ends to one pile, the pile is raised over each wire and very firmly bound by the three picks. The panne velvet fabrics have been made since the Middle Ages; the best quality coming from Italy originally, but later on from France. In 1667 a French law stated that the pile warp and ground warp were to be organzine and the weft of boiled silk and the width 22 inches.

Silk fabrics possess a peculiar rustling or scrunching feel which is variously termed " scroop," " bone " or " life " in the trade. Scroop is produced by treating the boiled-off yarn with a dilute acid. This peculiar " handle " can now be given to rayon fabrics by means of suitable treatment with soap or oil during the finishing process.

The name applied to thrown silk threads as they are produced after winding and cleaning. These threads are usually woven in the gum state, and the fabric is afterwards boiled-off and dyed; this is done so that the yarn retains its greatest strength.